Tools you will need: Floor jack or other way to lift and support your car Tire iron to remove the wheel 5mm hex key 14mm socket or wrench E20 torx socket or wrench (a 16mm socket could also work) pry bar and/or sledge hammer if things get rough. Caliper cleaner Here I will be installing new brake pads and rotors on my 2016 Renegade 1.4 Turbo with four wheel drive. I chose the Stoptech slotted rotors and Powerstop ceramic brake pads First you need to lift the car and remove the wheel. If you have spacers, you'll have to remove those as well. In order to remove the rotor, you will need to remove the brake rotor screw with a 5mm hex key or allen wrench. These can be a pain to remove but mine came out no problem. If you are just doing the brake pads, you can skip this part. The brake caliper is held on with two 14mm bolts from behind the rotor. Once that is removed you can pull the caliper off the brake pad assembly and replace them. There are another two bolts holding the brake pad assembly to the spindle. These have an E20 torx head. If you don't have an E20 torx socket or wrench, I believe a 16mm socket will fit over the head. With the bracket removed you can pull off the rotor. Mine was rusted on pretty good and needed a sledge hammer to break loose. Take the bracket and remove the pads. There are some metal clips behind the pads you can remove as well. Some brake kits don't come with replacement hardware, but it is a good idea to replace them. Reassemble the metals clips and pads into the bracket. The new rotor goes on first followed by the reassembled bracket. You have to expand the caliper to get it to fit over the new pads. Torque everything down to spec. You should use brake cleaner to remove any contamination from the rotor. It is also a good idea to bleed the brakes. Re-install the wheel and you should be good to go. Edit: this was the front rotors. The rear ones look different and have different bolts.
It is nice when you can do your own work. I am not a tech guy but I find write ups like this very interesting and I read them thru all the way. I find it helpful when I need work done and at least have a little understanding of what is required and hopefully know at least enough that I am not getting bamboozled. Thanks to all members for posting their knowledge. This forum is a great place.
May I please have the torque specs for the E20's and 14mm bolts? I intend on doing this brake job myself as well. I too bought the StopTech drilled and slotted and went with EBC Green stuff for the front and yellow stuff for the rear.
I didn't want to give exact specs because I didn't have them. There are a couple sites that state the 14mm bolts should be 26 lb-ft or torque. I only found one guy on another forum saying the E20's on the front caliper bracket should be 122 lb-ft of torque and the rear caliper bracket should be 42 lb-ft. These were not verified by any other source that I could find.
One more thing, sorry, the jacking points seem to be those slotted ones. Will I damage the lifting point using a standard pneumatic jack without some sort of slotted puck?
Desert, if you didn't already get an answer, yes, pucks will help keep the pinch welds from getting boogered. Highly recommend them. To OP, thanks for posting. I did the same thing a few months back, but added some spacers, so my socket head became a hex head. Also for those of you in a saltier environment (coastal, northern salt-using snow places), the back protector will fall off sooner rather than later, so I suggest you just rip it off. It really doesn't do that much. To add: after replacing your brakes, you need to set the pads. Burn them in using whichever method you prefer on Google, depending on whatever set of pads you decided to go with, a la higher performance pads will probably take a multi-cycle burn-in with also getting them a little hotter than a standard pad.