I think I would need a LOT more ground clearance to be able to roll around under my Renegade. 12-13" won't work for me.
Update on CV minor leak - I bought some of this and wrapped the CV boot tourniquet style. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GP72WC/ Seems to work pretty good so far, but I just did a 12 inch test strip and wrapped it about 3 times and drove around a bit. If that comes off/fails I will try a 3 foot strip and wrap it more times/wider. It sticks to itself really well though, so I don't think it will come off and it digs into the seem in the boot so won't leak either. We will see!
Was pretty good until about 60 miles in and it worked its way down to the base of the boot. I don't think I wrapped it enough and wide enough. The hole is a small slit/cut, so I put some black silicone on it this time and will wrap that tomorrow, once it is dry. I did manage to get the pinch seem mod done. That was some tough steel, I couldn't bend it with a sledge hammer and the sections started popping anyway, so I just cut the whole thing off about 12 inches up each side and put black silicone over the exposed seems. I am going to paint over that next week when my rustoleum for cars shows up. I destroyed the 1st cutting wheel that came with the 30$ angle grinder. It finally caught and shattered into 3 pieces towards the end of the second side. It came with 3 cutting wheels and 3 grinding wheels so I was able to finish with another cutting wheel. The steel is just that strong, I guess that is normal LOL. The heat gun also was only around $30 and worked very well at max heat and hi setting (probably should have turned it down a little). So basically with the 5$ can of paint, I did the mod myself with no tools ahead of time (outside basics) for $70.00 Too bad the wheels just can not be adjusted forward about 1 inch so I can get 31-32's on without major fender/wheel well modding.
Well, that was a tad disappointing, but some trial and error will hopefully get it working. That's pretty much the same as I did, went through 2 cutoff wheels as well It would be nice , but it would require quite a bit of engineering... redesigned lower control arms and struts at least, I think...
I ordered a Hankook 235/75R16 ATM R10 from Amazon for 93$+tax. I am going to test it out on the front and make sure I can get it to fit before I purchase 4 more 235/75R16s. I can use the Hankook as a spare, if I end up getting Cooper or another brand instead for the final 4. The 235 is just barely under 30", but a little bigger than the 225/75R16 others have barely got to fit. I will have the tire Friday so will let you all know this weekend how the 235-75R16 works out.
Really interested to see if it works out, With The Eibach's you're definitely moving the widest part of the tire down beyond where my 29's are sitting so close to the inner fender right now with just the 2.5" Avid. If it works out I'll probably look at getting the springs and going to a 245/65R17, There are a lot better choices for tires than there are at my current 235/65R17...
It fits! only 1-2mm gap at turn with least clearance between tire and lower side trim (hard plastic). The fender liner drags slightly on the lower flare. Not sure why there is a lower flare, because there is nothing behind it. I am going to heat gun that piece flat, like the pinch seem mod had me do on the other part of the fender liner. It clears the screw head, by the time you turn the wheel that far back towards straight/center. Gap between lower spring cup and tire. This is 1" spacer and 16" 25mm offset wheel (-15 from stock, so overall basically a 1.5" wheel spacer) Here you see the lower flare from the flat part that goes behind the side trim. There is lots of space behind the lower part of the fender liner from flare all the way to the inner wall. One could secure it back a bit more, if needed. Here is a compare of front and back with 30" front / 28" back: Getting the other 4 tires this week as well as mounted.
Nice! Did you happen to run it lock to lock to see if it rubs when turning? I think I'll probably just be able to eliminate the lower part of the flare when I put the RRO sliders on anyway...
Yah, only spot it touched on turn to full lock on either direction was that little flare in the lower fender liner (barely brushes it, enough to wipe the dust off).
Slight rub I mentioned, with both on the right side rubs on the trim whereas the left side has a 1-2mm gap. So slightly off. The plastic lip of the runner piece that goes under the doors bent out a little, but I just bent it back and pushed it farther back than it originally was so both sides have the same clearance now. Before After
You’ve got a real nice setup there. It has me wanting a taller lift already and I haven’t even had the chance to install mine.(I just got the 1 1/2” Avid.) Those tires lead me to this tho... I got a set of 225/75-16 Toyo Open Country A/T, took them to the local shop to get installed and the guy kinda chuckled and says, that’s a lot more tire than you have now. He proceeded to start swapping out the passenger side and calls me back over saying something about a problem. Freakin tire touches the bottom of the strut . My 1 1/4” spacers should be here tomorrow and I got the lug bolts with the shorter heads for rim clearance in the spacers. I’m hoping with the pinch seam mod and a little heat gun enhanced plastics manipulation I’ll be able to get my tires mounted w/o more issues before I get the lift installed. Anybody see issues coming my way with this so far? Please advise. TIA
After a couple weeks now of rolling around on the 235's, I still have some mild rubbing on the fender liner when not on level ground and turning almost full lock. Full lock is fine, it is just passing past that 80% mark where it seems to rub at times. I ended up trimming off the front face of the plastic runners that run below the doors. That small part of that runner would get bent up when hitting 80% lock on the way back to straight. Once bent up, it would make a loud snap sound every time you hit 80% either way after that. (a plastic tab pushed by rubber then snapping back) So I took a trust razor knife and shaved off the piece sticking up. I had to do that a couple times before I just cut most of that off. (see the photo earlier in this thread) I also removed the screw on both sides because it started to get polished rather nicely, indicating it was rubbing at times. So when they say, "up to 30" tires", they mean up to "29.75" tires" in reality. To prevent all rubbing, I will need to put some more screws in the fender liner to push it back (it flaps a little away from the steel body) and cut the plastic trim back a little on the piece above. Since it barely rubs now and only at certain angles, it isn't very loud compared to the loud snap sound I had to address, I am not very motivated to cut away more trim and screw back the fender liners until I get rock sliders ordered and installed. So 225/75/16 seems to be a limit where limited modifications are needed. 235/75/16 you need to do a tad more mod work to the fender liner and plastic side trims on the part that folds over into the wheel well. The metal mounting bracket for the side trim seems to barely clear these tires in all situations, but I will cut that off when I put rock sliders on anyway.
Is the noise #2 you describe like this <iframe width="260" height="150" src="" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> That is the noise I got with 1.5" spacer and eibach springs on my Latitude, I thiught it was engine noise as well but was able to differentiate the engine noise from this one. Ended up taking out the spacer kit as the noise you described was driving me nutts.
Sounds like the same noise, thanks for posting that. I couldn't get it recorded it is very quiet compared to that recording, but sounds the same otherwise. My wife can't hear it from the passenger side, for instance. Yes, it has been bugging me too. I thought it was vibrations from the engine traveling through the exhaust and causing vibrations against other parts, originally - due to the movement of things due to spacers and bigger springs. It seems to not happen when the car is completely cold though. It starts after driving about a mile or so. I usually crack the window or turn on the stereo so I don't hear it. Maybe it isn't the engine though. I am not sure how to determine from here, I need expert help