Hello everyone, I just installed the Avid 2” lift kit (acually lifted it about 2.5”) about 2 weeks ago on our 2019 Trailhawk. We just did some light off-roading, and when we were done we notice a considerable amount of popping coming from the front drivers side only while going over bumps in the road. I’m about 99% sure it’s the sway bar end links. The stock sway bar end links are considerably longer than the ones provided by Avid. Is it possible to switch back to the factory links, or does anyone know of any other solutions? Should I reach back out to Avid? Additional info: Our Trailhawk only has about 3k miles on her and the last 400 have been on the Avid kit.
AVID has been real good to me. I asked them about the sway bar end links that I received, because they weren’t the same as pictured. I was told that the end links I received are an upgrade to the ones pictured on their website. With as few miles that you have on your Jeep, I’ll bet they will do you a solid. The set I received looked like steel stock type with normal ends on them (example picture attached), not with the hiem joint set up they have pictured on their website.
So I decided to go ahead and check to see if the end link nuts were still tight. The upper nut that connects the sway bar to the strut seemed a little loose so I tried tightening. Well it wouldn’t tighten at all, backed the nut off and notice all of the threads had sheered off. If any one else is installing this kit or has a similar problem, the factory nuts fit perfectly and are of a much better quality. I put the factory nuts back on with blue thread lock, and tightened. Completely got rid of the knocking. We took the Jeep back on the same trail that caused the knocking the first time and nothing. I like Avid and still believe in the quality of their parts, but I’m now a little wary of their choice in hardware.
By the picture, you received the upgraded sway bar end links. I'm glad it was only a loose nut; with an easy fix.
I've got the Avid 2" kit. What component do the rear arms provided replace? Length doesn't seem to match any of the stock part lengths.
The lower front control arm running from the differential housing to the spindle. They are adjustable and will provide additional adjustment for the rear Caster/Camber and thrust angles. Picture used from our friends from Camp WAYALIFE (for illustration purposes only). https://www.toasterjeep.com/index.p...nderneath-a-2015-jeep-renegade-trailhawk.329/
After you install your kit, don't forget to check your rear skid plates for contact with the rear control arms and the Rear differential dampener. In fact, you might have to remove the rear skid plates (fuel tank protection) to install the new control are perches.
Want to try installing the rear without dropping the rear subframe, carrier bearing and exhaust. Any issues? Some prior threads discuss this set up. Here's a shot of my 2016 Trailhawk no lift - Raceline 126's 16x7 +40 offset, 20mm hub-centric spacers w/short head lug bolts, Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's 245/70r16's. Did pinch seam mods and flattened inner fender liners - no rubbing at stock height so far... 250 miles since install.
The Renegade looks good. A good pre-lift pic for comparison. The only issue that I could see NOT dropping he rear subframe would be the rear drive line angles; and I am talking the angles for the half shafts, not for the driveshaft. You would be raising the Renegade at the struts without extending the four control arms that run from the differential mount to the spindles. This might cause the rear wheels to pull in giving you too much Positive Camber. The outer edge of your tires would wear faster. You might get some vibrations because of the sharper angles on the rear half shafts at the constant velocity joints (this would also cause additional wear). The only reason to lower the carrier bearing is to maintain the driveshaft angle when lowering the rear subframe. The exhaust will touch at the rear differential mount (subframe) if you lower the subframe without lowering the muffler mounts. Just something to consider... I wish you the best, can't wait to compare the end results.
Thanks for the overview on the rear subframe drop delete! The front suspension uses strut spacers only. I think the half shafts are shorter than the rear so the angles on the rear should be ok. Current "stock" set up has a pronounced negative camber - I'm guessing more than -2 degrees. I'll give it a try, can always add the puck spacers later. When I attempted to install the front spacers, the driver's strut bracket was rotated about 30 degrees toward the back of the vehicle - barely cleared over the steering tie rod. Any suggestions for aligning and connecting the front struts to the steering knuckle?
Put a large screwdriver or a punch through one of the strut mount bolt holes and twist the strut where you need it to be. The top bearing will allow it to turn.
Great! Thanks! Plan to install this weekend. Final question... With the subframe spacer delete, the rear stabilizer links will need to be shorter. Can I just loosen the sway bar brackets on the the subframe and allow the sway bar to rotate to fit the factory link locations?
Got it. Rear strut spacers will move the end link hole down. Sway bar position will remain the same - 2" shorter end link length unless the sway bar can rotate down to match original hole-to-hole spacing. You've got a really nice rig BTW!
Installed my Avid 2" lift kit Labor Day weekend. Got a combined 3" of lift from stock with 245/70R16 tires. Did the rear subframe, carrier bearing, exhaust spacer delete. Rear half shaft angles look good. Less extreme than the front half shafts. Alignment is all in the green! Before and after pics... Also included a front strut install aid pic using the sway bar mounting hole and a bottle jack. Used the factory sway bar link nuts. Thanks for your help guys!