Discussion in 'Renegade Modified Tech' started by Pedals, May 30, 2019.
Well now I'm jealous my deserthawk doesn't look like this. This is awesome!
Those are for 'Toe', which as you note, is how straight forward/back the wheel is. Camber is how much the tire leans in or out top to bottom.
I can already tell drivers side will need them but I'll let the pros do the heavy lifting if they say so.
Thx Zuke I need to do more research lol
In tomorrow for eibach install & mounting new falken 245/70R17 on stock th rims- following the OP’s rig.
Keep us updated on those size tires.
I am curious about tire rub. I am thinking that those will be about the absolute biggest you can go... with pinch weld and fender liner modifications.
I'm going to talk w/ Firestone about doing their new 245/70r17 Destination X/T's. I don't plan on removing the rock rails which I think will be the next think stopping the size after pinch seam and fender wall mods.
I have 1.5" spacers I'm ready to put on but after doing some quick measurements, I don't know if it will be enough. I don't think you can go lock to lock of turn radius.
they are big! I did expect rubbing on turn as I hadn’t done the pinch seam mod yet. came home and even with the seam gone it will rub while turning. I have 1.5” spacers on too.
the 245 70 R17 specs measured at 30.6” I figured would be enough but looking at it now an inch shorter would make me feel a little better. perhaps trying a 245 65 R17 @ 29.5”.
I was afraid of that. I am thinking that I will go with the 245/65R17 (29.5). Even with all of the cutting and modification made... I just don't want it to rub.
I just need to decide which tire:
BFG All Terrain T/A KO2; "Best" rated, long lasting tire that I have been using for the past 3 years that I have nearly 50K mile on, but will be need to be replaced by winter. Great in the snow, rain and mud.
or the Falken Wildpeak A/T3W; "Better" rated tire, with a 55K mile warranty.
… those 245/70's sure look good on there though.
So help needed on rear. Avids instructions say that strut spacers are left and right specific but everything I see seems like they're identical parts. It says that strut should sit in board of the spacers. Which looking at spacer, all the holes and lines are symmetrical.
However, the control arm brackets are definitely side specific. Looking at OEM ones, it appears that they are too. It appears that in my photo, that is left on left and right on right, can anyone confirm this before I screw it up.
I'll be swapping springs on struts in the mean time.
On the billet spacers for the rear struts, there is an inboard set of mounting holes.
Yea, but they don't seem to be left or right side specific right? Like it seems like mine are identical parts, you just have to install them the right way so the strut is inboard.
I'm more worried about choosing wrong side for the control arm brackets since they are definitely not the identical parts.
I see what you are talking about in the instructions, but I don't see a difference either.
One side is threaded, and the other isn't. I don't see how you can get it wrong.
AVID was real good about marking their parts. There should be an "R" or an "L" on them someplace if they are side specific.
billet spacers were identical for me too. control arm mounts opposite. I lined them up before removing anything and went off the picture of the sticker barcode and center of the jeep in the reference pictures. in my best judgement I chose to put the flat edge outwards leaving the steeper angled piece faced
inboard. in your picture of the lowering brackets above they are depicted Right & Left respectively. the little hangouts face forward.
this is my passenger side mount:
So i did the opposite, and the reason why I did was because the OEM ones were also not identical but side specific. I made sure to keep my parts separate as I dismantled and then compared the two when I noticed no stickers or L/R markings on the Avid ones. It seemed to me that the OEM ones had bigger pockets on the outboard, which is why I did it that way. If only Avid could weigh in on this @Avid Essentials Team
well, my stock ones are identical and symmetrical too, and if there was any difference it was the head of the bolt on the inside. the control arms look good at the bushings. alignment is this week.
To those that care, Avid responded to my IG message and they say the side with the larger bend needs to go inboard. I'll take that as the one with the bigger angle. Looks like I was flat wrong. Definitely easier to get in that way too!
Still getting up to speed regading lifting, springs and rock sliders. The OP said he removed the factory rock sliders. Does that mean my 2018 TH has them? I am not where the jeep is currently.
Pedals' Renny is a Deserthawk, they came with real Rock sliders from the factory, those of us with regular Trailhawks just got the same piece of cheap plastic on there as most Renegades..
Thanks for the clarification.
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