Renegade Brake rotors and pads

Discussion in 'Renegade Write-Ups' started by persquank, Oct 26, 2019.

  1. persquank

    persquank Active Member

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    Tools you will need:

    Floor jack or other way to lift and support your car
    Tire iron to remove the wheel
    5mm hex key
    14mm socket or wrench
    E20 torx socket or wrench (a 16mm socket could also work)
    pry bar and/or sledge hammer if things get rough.
    Caliper cleaner

    Here I will be installing new brake pads and rotors on my 2016 Renegade 1.4 Turbo with four wheel drive. I chose the Stoptech slotted rotors and Powerstop ceramic brake pads

    upload_2019-10-26_21-24-3.png

    First you need to lift the car and remove the wheel. If you have spacers, you'll have to remove those as well.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-25-39.png

    In order to remove the rotor, you will need to remove the brake rotor screw with a 5mm hex key or allen wrench. These can be a pain to remove but mine came out no problem. If you are just doing the brake pads, you can skip this part.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-32-22.png

    The brake caliper is held on with two 14mm bolts from behind the rotor.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-33-53.png

    Once that is removed you can pull the caliper off the brake pad assembly and replace them. There are another two bolts holding the brake pad assembly to the spindle. These have an E20 torx head. If you don't have an E20 torx socket or wrench, I believe a 16mm socket will fit over the head.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-41-32.png upload_2019-10-26_21-43-0.png

    With the bracket removed you can pull off the rotor. Mine was rusted on pretty good and needed a sledge hammer to break loose.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-46-19.png

    Take the bracket and remove the pads. There are some metal clips behind the pads you can remove as well. Some brake kits don't come with replacement hardware, but it is a good idea to replace them.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-48-18.png upload_2019-10-26_21-48-54.png

    Reassemble the metals clips and pads into the bracket. The new rotor goes on first followed by the reassembled bracket. You have to expand the caliper to get it to fit over the new pads.

    upload_2019-10-26_21-53-20.png

    Torque everything down to spec. You should use brake cleaner to remove any contamination from the rotor. It is also a good idea to bleed the brakes.

    Re-install the wheel and you should be good to go.

    Edit: this was the front rotors. The rear ones look different and have different bolts.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
  2. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up, thanks for sharing.
     
  3. Dgr401

    Dgr401 Well-Known Member

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    It is nice when you can do your own work. I am not a tech guy but I find write ups like this very interesting and I read them thru all the way. I find it helpful when I need work done and at least have a little understanding of what is required and hopefully know at least enough that I am not getting bamboozled. Thanks to all members for posting their knowledge. This forum is a great place.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
  4. DesertHawk Echo

    DesertHawk Echo New Member

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    May I please have the torque specs for the E20's and 14mm bolts? I intend on doing this brake job myself as well. I too bought the StopTech drilled and slotted and went with EBC Green stuff for the front and yellow stuff for the rear.
     
  5. Mrsig

    Mrsig Active Member

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    Thanks for posting!
     
  6. persquank

    persquank Active Member

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    I didn't want to give exact specs because I didn't have them. There are a couple sites that state the 14mm bolts should be 26 lb-ft or torque. I only found one guy on another forum saying the E20's on the front caliper bracket should be 122 lb-ft of torque and the rear caliper bracket should be 42 lb-ft. These were not verified by any other source that I could find.
     
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  7. DesertHawk Echo

    DesertHawk Echo New Member

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    Thank you kindly.
     
  8. DesertHawk Echo

    DesertHawk Echo New Member

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    One more thing, sorry, the jacking points seem to be those slotted ones. Will I damage the lifting point using a standard pneumatic jack without some sort of slotted puck?
     
  9. DesertHawk Echo

    DesertHawk Echo New Member

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    Wanted to pop in and say thank you for this guide. Here’s my completed front set.
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. IDoMy0wnRacing

    IDoMy0wnRacing Well-Known Member

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    I like a sexy set of stoppers...

    Good job guys.
     
  11. DesertHawk Echo

    DesertHawk Echo New Member

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    Back brakes are done.
     

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  12. PlatinumCore16

    PlatinumCore16 Member

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    Desert, if you didn't already get an answer, yes, pucks will help keep the pinch welds from getting boogered. Highly recommend them.

    To OP, thanks for posting. I did the same thing a few months back, but added some spacers, so my socket head became a hex head. Also for those of you in a saltier environment (coastal, northern salt-using snow places), the back protector will fall off sooner rather than later, so I suggest you just rip it off. It really doesn't do that much.

    To add: after replacing your brakes, you need to set the pads. Burn them in using whichever method you prefer on Google, depending on whatever set of pads you decided to go with, a la higher performance pads will probably take a multi-cycle burn-in with also getting them a little hotter than a standard pad.
     
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